One has a high gloss finish while the other has a nitro- cellulose finish. The 160 comes with a case while the 150 does not (it's extra). The 160 has a "hand carved" solid top and sides while the 150 just says solid. #Set up: This includes adjusting the truss rod, cutting the nut slots to the appropriate depth, setting the bridge for proper intonation, checking frets for issues and dressing as needed # Classic mother-of-pearl “Kentucky” script inlay and dot markers # High-quality, nickel-plated Gotoh tuners with engraved plate # Nickel-plated tailpiece with leather insert # Traditional 2-screw truss rodcover plate # Vintage-style rosewood bridge with small adjustment wheels # “Snakehead” rosewood peghead overlay with inlaid Kentucky script in pearl # One piece maple neck with dovetail neck/body joint at the 12th fret # Solid, hand-carved flamed maple back and sides # Solid, hand-carved and graduated spruce tops Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.Thanks for the input, very helpful for a new guy. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. At some point, you'll figure out what you really want or simply want to upgrade. Based on what I've read here, the chances of your first mando being "the one" are pretty slim. The mando can be brutal on beginner fingers and these strings will really help. Silk and Steel Lights or one of the flat-wound lights. I bought my first mando from Elderly and the setup was perfect. I doubt there's a huge difference.īuy it from one of the recommended sellers here, like Mandolin Hut or Elderly Instruments because they will give your mandolin a good setup. If you do a "search" you might find that info. I bought a low-end one (based on research here) and it was very playable with a good tone. The Kentuckys are very good beginner mandolins.
I can pass on the excellent advice that was given to me here, which has proven to be true. I'm new to mandolins also (2 months into playing), so I just went through it all.